Buying a car – lease or buy

Introduction

A couple of readers liked my car leasing story and wanted me to write some more about car leasing vs buying.  Let me first say, “You guys could have easily Googled this” and secondly, I am not the expert at all on this.  My only expertise in the matter is that a) I’ve now both bought and leased cars and b) I took a personal finance class in college, which I swear was the most useful class.  With that said, let’s begin:

Step 1 – Which car?

This is seriously 80% of the work.  Don’t waste time looking at prices and years online.  Take a Saturday off and go test drive cars.  I wasted 8 hours researching the Infinity Q40 deal, and within 2 minutes, my wife veto’ed it because ‘it looked old.’  So figure out what car you want for your needs.  Are you expecting a child soon?  Maybe not get that 2 door coupe.  Feel a mid life crisis coming on like yours truly?  Maybe get that 2 door coupe.  Audi or BMW?  Electric or hybrid?  Toyota or Honda or even Kia/Hyundai?  How much can you afford?  Trust me.  Spending a day test driving cars will be much more productive than researching online.  Just walk into the Lexus dealership and tell them you are looking for an SUV or a sedan or a coupe.  Have them show you the models and then test drive a couple.  The key here is DON’T WASTE TOO MUCH TIME AT ONE DEALERSHIP.  Test drive the car.  Say you enjoyed it.  Tell them you’ll think about it and you’ll get back to them if you’re interested.  Then move on to the next one.

Step 2 – New, Used, or Lease?

Now that you’ve narrowed down your choice down to a couple of cars, ask yourself how long you plan on keeping the car.  That will decide whether you buy or lease.  If you think you’ll want a new car in 2-3 years, then LEASE.  If you think you’ll keep it forever, BUY USED.  If you HAVE to have a new car or if you’re impatient or if you don’t really care in saving money on used or if you MUST have a warranty, BUY NEW.  I’ve never bought a NEW car just because I am cheap.  My father in law did buy my wife’s Hyundai new, but that was when the ‘cash for clunkers’ deal was going on, and since a NEW Hyundai was already so cheap, it didn’t really cost him much more to buy new.  Here are the pros and cons of each:

Lease

  • Advantages – New car smell.  Trade it in for a newer car in 2-4 years.  Don’t have to worry about major maintenance.  Bragging rights to all your friends until they give you the stink face when you tell them you’re just leasing it.
  • Disadvantages – Most expensive option of the 3 (well besides BUYING NEW and selling within a year or two… shoulda leased in that scenario)

BUY NEW

  • Advantages – New car smell.  Don’t have to worry about major maintenance until warranty expires.  Even more bragging rights to all your friends, especially when you tell them you BOUGHT instead of LEASED
  • Disadvantages – Your car just depreciated 5% as soon as you bought it

BUY USED

  • Advantages – Cheapest option
  • Disadvantages – If it’s out of warranty, could be expensive to repair (esp German cars.)  Not so new smell unless you buy a strawberry air freshener.  No bragging rights since you would only casually bring it up in a dinner conversation.  “Oh hey everyone, I just bought a USED 2011 blah blah” said no one ever!

An example

Let’s say you went test driving cars this weekend and decided you really liked the Acura MDX SUV (the #1 best selling SUV in the US).  Now if you are more than 50% sure that you won’t be driving it in 3 years (say you are here on an ex-pat assignment,) LEASE IT.  If you think you’ll be BORED with the car in 3-4 years because you have ADD or ‘always want the newest stuff,’ then LEASE IT.  The next question is – how important is NEW to you?  Would you rather save $5,000 by buying a 3 year old car with 40,000 miles on it?  Can you live with not knowing the history of the car?  That you are sitting in someone else’s fart bubble the past 3 years?

Leasing the car

Let’s say you wanted to LEASE the car, first off, you should read Philip’s article about how to get the best lease deals.  Currently, Acura is offering $439 a month for 36 months and $3,000 due at signing for the 2016 Acura MDX ($43,000 MSRP.)  Let’s say tax, title, and document fees come out to an additional $1,000 and so your total ‘drive-off’ cost is $4,000.  To make this simplistic, I’ll assume the money factor is nearly 0.  That means you can divide $4,000 / 36 months = $111 + $439 = $550 + tax.  That means to lease this car for 3 years, you’ll be paying $550 a month for 36 months for a total of ~$20,000.  OUCH.  Fast forward 3 years from now and you would have paid $20K and have no car to show for it!  This is the reason why people hate leases and will give you the condescending look like you’re throwing away money.  By the way, you SHOULDN’T DO THIS LEASE regardless because you want to pay $0 money down since down payments are non-refundable (read Phil’s article.)

Buying the car NEW

Now if you were to BUY the car NEW, I did a quick Bankrate.com calculator on it ($43,000 for 36 months at 3% APR gets you a monthly payment of $1,250+tax.  OUCH!  Now most people would most likely do a 5 year loan, which gets you down to $772+tax a month, but for this example, I wanted to do the same time frame comparison.  Another thing to note here – in most states, you only pay the tax on the monthly lease amount, so if you leased it, you’d be paying taxes on $20,000 vs paying taxes on the $43,000.  Regardless, if you bought the car NEW, then after 3 years, you’d have fully paid off the car and now the car is in your name and you can run it into the ground.

Let me throw out an unlikely scenario for you.  Let’s say that after 1 year, you got a new job and now work is providing you with a free car.  You no long need the MDX and want to sell it.  In this scenario, let’s assume you live in WA state with a 9.5% sales tax.  $43,000 * 1.095 = $47,000.  Now how much do you think you can sell the car for?  Certainly not $43K.  Maybe $40K if you are lucky.  More likely, you’d be selling the car for about $37K.  That means you’ve “lost” $10K on the car since you paid $47K and now you only got $37K for it.  In this scenario, as you can see, the 3 year lease of $20K * 1.095 = $22K / 3 years = $7.3K would have saved you money (assuming you can easily transfer the lease to someone else.)  The point I’m trying to make is that one of the worst financial mistakes in buying cars is buying a brand new and having to sell it within the first year or two.

Buying the car USED

Now let’s say you are more fiscally conservative and decide you’d rather buy a USED MDX.  Now the question is – do you want to buy from a dealer or private party?  If you buy from an Acura dealer, then it may be a certified preowned, which may cost more, but usually will have extended warranties.  So you have to ask yourself – how risk averse are you?  Are you wiling to pay for the warranty?  When I bought my used Audi S5, I decided to buy an extended warranty from the non-Audi dealership because I wanted the peace of mind of a 3 year warranty.  If I had bought an Acura MDX, I trust in the reliability of Acura and probably wouldn’t have.  Only you can answer this question.  If you don’t want the warranty, then buying from a private party is the way to go.  You can buy from Craigslist, cars.com, autotrader.com, truecar.com, etc.  Make sure you pay attention to the features of the car too (does it have NAV, a backup camera, heated seats, etc).  Some people like to take the prospective car to a mechanic to see if there could be any potential problems.  As you can see, all of the possibilities makes some people’s heads explode, and they just decide to buy NEW to not have to deal with all these questions.

Conclusion

A wise person once told me, “Look Vinh, buying a car is never a sound financial decision.”  And he’s right.  If you can get from point A to point B in your 1980 Honda Accord, then more power to you.  A brand new BMW will get you from the same point A to point B in probably a bit less time but a lot more comfort and enjoyment.  What do you value that enjoyment?  Do you value it as much as $500 a month?  A $1,000 a month?  Do you have the discretionary income to afford the monthly payments?

6 comments on “Buying a car – lease or buy

  1. Two points that I didn’t see listed:

    1) Safety is a huge reason for buying or leasing new vehicles. Every year technological advances create safer vehicles.

    2) At the end of your lease, you may have a purchase option. The purchase price is set before you even get the keys to the car. Because the purchase price is based on the estimated depreciation, there may be the possibility of buying the car at lease end and immediately selling it if the margin works in your favor.

    We’re currently in year #2 of a lease on a 2014 Mazda 6. With the wife still in school and having a 1 year old we felt the best decision was to find a safe vehicle with a warranty and low monthly payments for the next 3 years. We’ll re-evaluate when the time comes.

    It has a reinforced body 33% stronger than previous models, has a notification system when lane changing and a backup camera. Odds are it’ll retain its value better than the estimated value. If so, we’ll be able to sell it for a profit or we may even keep it as it has low mileage and runs great.

    We drove more than an hour away to get it because they offered the best rate (overall lowest cost for 36 months). Our closest dealership flat out told me they’d lose money if they matched the rate. Guessing the fact it’s a huge dealership helped push the deal along. They even let us pay the down payment with a credit card even though they’re not supposed to.

    1. Choosing the car with highest safety would have been step #1 in my process, which was finding the right car for you.

      You’re right about the purchase option at the end. I think it’s safe to say it’s rare that the leasing companies would undervalue the residual value. Even then, do you really want to deal with the hassle of buying and reselling the car for say $1,000 profit? I wouldn’t waste my time but others might.

      1. Comes down to supply/demand, opportunity cost and your willingness to float funds.

        The Mazda 6 has been a best pick and it’s highly likely this vehicle will have at least $1,000 value between the buy price and blue book based on current blue book, car condition and low mileage.

        Assuming I spend 4 hours of my time to buy and sell it (again, popular cars are faster sales) I’m making $250/hour based on your theoretical $1k profit. I assume your time is more valuable than $250/hour as that’s the only logical reason for passing on the opportunity.

        Then again, the fact you flew to California and went to more than half a dozen Smart and Finals suggests you value your time below $250/hour so I’m left scratching my head as to how you “wouldn’t waste your time.”

        Interested to read your response.

        1. Because I don’t want to deal with unreliable people on Craigslist, but mainly, even if you think you’ll make $1K, the buyer will try to talk you down to maybe only $500 profit. I also don’t want to deal with all the paperwork and hassle of going to the bank with the buyer to make sure his funds clear. Granted all that may take 2-4 hours of my time, I just don’t want to deal with it. That’s just not something I want to do. If you want to do that for $500-$1K, then by all means, go for it.

  2. Maybe we could have Googled this, but no way would any other post been as entertaining! “fart bubble”! LOL!

    I’ve always bought new with an aftermarket extended warranty and then kept that car until the warranty expired. I know many articles online claim that extended warranties are a waste of money, but after my one and only Ford experience (car in the shop for warranty work every 3-6 months), I know they are absolutely necessary.

    Another option that I’ve never done personally but know people who have is to buy used cars thru dealer auctions and get an aftermarket extended warranty. One guy I knew would buy a like-new used sports car this way, drive it for a year or 2, and then sell it to a private buyer for about what he originally paid for it. If you’re not a dealer, you can find people on google/craigslist who will buy the car for you at the auction for a relatively small fee.

    I either work from home or travel for work (depending on the contract I get), so I’ve given serious thought to not owning a car and just relying on bicycle, Uber, and Enterprise Rental (they come pick you up) for my car needs. I haven’t pulled the trigger on this yet, but it is a very real possibility that I think would save me a lot of money in the long run with a little bit of hassle. And I’d probably lose some weight too!

    I should point out that I live in the suburbs. If I lived in a city, I would never own a car.

    1. Ah that’s why I’m here. Keeping it real with the fart bubbles.

      You’re right. I know 2 coworkers who bought from auction. I was going to go that route, but that is truly a black hole right? You don’t know what could be wrong with the car… Then again, my dealership bought my S5 from an auction from another dealership for $6K less. Bastards.

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